The Friday evening of the Dalai Lama’s teaching, Seina, Jitin and I met for dinner and laid plans to visit Amritsar on Sunday. They would stay only one day, but I planned to remain through Wednesday when the train I write this on would be leaving for the opposite side of the country.
When I get off of this train, I will be near Darjeeling and will be set to embark on the seven-day Sandukphu Phalut trek that winds its way through the shadows of the Kacenjunga peak and Sleeping Buddha mountain range and also provides a distant view of the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest.
So that left me with one final day in Dharamkot; so what a better way to spend it than preparing for the hike on the Triund Trail, which circles from Dharamkot over to Bhagsu waterfall in an approximately 12-kilometer loop with more than 1,200 meters in elevation gain and descent.
I woke up early Saturday and started walking to some really nice and sunny weather. It took about two and a half hours to reach the Triund pass, which is where the campgrounds are located.
I passed a group of energetic young nuns who reminded me of Tenzin Drolma from the Dalai Lama teaching the day prior and saw them again enjoying breakfast and fellowship atop the pass.
I meandered up about 200 meters higher, making my way up through a couple of flocks of mountain goats to sit on a high stone outcropping with a good view down to the pass. It wasn’t quite the top of the mountain, which was still another 250 meters up, accessible off a side path from the Snow Line Trek, but the clouds were setting in and it appeared rain would come soon.
I went ahead and started the descent from the back side of the loop as a light rain started. I encountered several groups of exhausted trekkers making their way toward the top and realized that the descent down to Bhagsu would not be an easy one. Good chunks of it involved climbing down rocks slightly slick from the misty rain.
Fortunately, I made it most of the way down and was conveniently located right next to a canopied store when the only real rain shower of the day hit. I stayed mostly dry and descended to the Shiva Cafe atop the Bhagsu waterfall where I was a week prior.
From there down, I made my way into Bhagsu and a meal at the Fontana Cafe, overlooking the public swimming pool at Bhagsu.
And while I was there, I thought, why not a piece of that elusive original Bhagsu cake I had been seeking. Sure enough, I found the spot at Singh Corner. I spoke to Mr. Singh himself and he proudly pointed to his noggin when I asked where the recipe originated.
I ordered a piece of the white chocolate and the peanut butter. I took it home with me that night and after evening yoga class at Sivu’s, I sunk my teeth into that delectable peanut butter treat.
I may not have found enlightenment in Dharamshala, but it was pretty close.